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“The Watchmaker’s Watchmaker”

A Short History of Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre (pronounced ZHAY-zhair luh-KOOL-truh) was born from the partnership between Swiss watchmaker Antoine LeCoultre and Parisian horologist Edmond Jaeger, a fusion of precision engineering and elegant design.

LeCoultre opened his workshop in Switzerland in 1833. The self taught watchmaker was the inventor of the Millionomètre, the first instrument to measure microns. This tool allowed LeCoultre to produce ultra-thin precision components. 

Jaeger was a supplier for the French navy and in the early 1900s he challenged Swiss watchmakers to produce his ultra-thin movement design. LeCoultre took up the task and from that success, the two merged in 1937. 

The duo became known as Watchmaker’s Watchmaker as they were supplying components to some of the biggest watchmakers in the world, including, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Cartier. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre was a standout manufacturer because they were able to design, produce, and assemble, all under one roof. They were able to make movements, cases, dials, and complications (any function on a watch beyond simply telling the time) all themselves. 

One of their most iconic timepieces is the Reverso. This watch was born out of the need of British polo players who wanted a watch they could wear during play, without the worry of the face breaking. Jaeger-LeCoultre came up with a unique solution, a watch with a reversible case. This design allowed the user to flip the watch face around to protect the glass with a solid metal back. 

The design stuck and the solid metal back became a canvas for engravings, enamel portraits, and commemorative dates. The Reverso has continued to be popular for its elegant but versatile design. 

Jaeger-LeCoultre may be a bit off the beaten path from your mainline collectors. But their proven history and iconic designs continue to turn heads today and is without a doubt worth looking into for your next vintage purchase.

MP Knowlton is deputy editor of GAUTHIER’S Vintage Watches & Culture.


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