Congratulations! You’re either the new owner of a fine vintage wristwatch, or you’d like to be one soon. In either case, welcome to the world of vintage timepiece ownership. The following beginner’s guide to vintage watches will take you through the most common questions and issues that can arise on your new journey.
CONTENTS:
I. An Anatomy Lesson: Getting Acquainted With Your Timepiece
II. The Power Source: Every Timepiece Has One, Even Yours
III. How to Wind Your Mechanical Watch
IV. How to Set Your Mechanical Watch
V. How to Care for Your Mechanical Watch
VI. Servicing Your Watch
VII. Malfunction and Troubleshooting
I. An Anatomy Lesson: Getting Acquainted With Your Timepiece
II. The Power Source: Every Timepiece Has One, Even Yours
Quartz
Watches with quartz or battery-powered movements will keep running until the battery is fully depleted, assuming all internal components are functioning properly. It’s important not to leave these watches idle for long periods, as old batteries can leak or burst, potentially causing severe damage to the movement. Typically, a battery lasts between 1.5 and 2 years, and it should be replaced or removed before reaching the end of its life.
Manual-Wind
A manual-wind watch relies entirely on being wound by hand to function. To power it, you turn the crown forward (clockwise) until you feel resistance and it cannot be rotated further, indicating it’s fully wound. Detailed steps for winding will be provided in the next section. A full wind is necessary before wearing and usually provides power for 24 to 36 hours. Many wearers make it a daily habit to wind their watch each morning before wearing it.
Automatic-Wind
An automatic (or self-winding) watch is designed to wind itself through the natural motion of your wrist as you wear it. It can also be wound manually, if desired (instructions in the following section). Inside, a rotor or bumper mechanism spins with your movements, keeping the watch powered throughout the day. While manual winding is also an option—covered in the next section—it’s typically unnecessary for daily use. As long as the watch is worn for at least 8 hours with regular activity, it should build enough power to run for 24 to 36 hours.
III. How to Wind Your Mechanical Watch
Manual Wind Watches
To wind your watch, grip the crown (also known as the winder) between your thumb and forefinger and rotate it forward in a clockwise motion using long, full turns. While the crown may spin in both directions, only the clockwise direction actually winds the watch. Most watches require between 15 and 25 full rotations to achieve a full wind, though this can vary by model. Continue winding until the crown resists and no longer turns—this indicates the watch is fully wound.
Manual-wind watches should always be wound until this point of resistance is reached. In contrast, automatic watches can be wound indefinitely without harm, though only the clockwise motion contributes to winding. Once fully wound, your watch should run for approximately 24 to 36 hours.
For best results, wind your watch completely at the same time each day if you’re wearing it regularly. If you’re not wearing it, winding isn’t necessary. These movements are built to be durable—there’s no need to worry about overwinding.
Automatic (Self-winding) Watches
Automatic watches, also known as self-winding watches, contain a small internal rotor that spins with the natural movement of your wrist, winding the mainspring which keeps the watch running. If worn consistently for 6–10 hours a day with moderate wrist activity, the watch will maintain enough power to keep running overnight and be ready to go in the morning. However, if the watch is not worn for a day or longer, it will eventually stop once the power reserve is depleted.
To restart a stopped automatic watch, turn the crown manually 5 to 8 full rotations before setting the time and wearing it. Although automatic movements are designed to handle continuous winding without harm, about 30 full turns will fully wind the mainspring—additional winding beyond that point is unnecessary.
IV. How to Set Your Mechanical Watch
To set the time on your watch, gently pull the crown all the way out to its final position—you’ll feel a distinct click. Then, rotate the crown in either direction to move the hands forward or backward as needed.
For Rolex ‘Oyster’ models with a screw-down crown, begin by unscrewing the crown: turn it counterclockwise until it releases from the case threads. Once unscrewed, pull the crown out fully to access the time-setting position. After adjusting the time, press the crown back toward the case and screw it in by turning it clockwise to ensure it’s properly sealed. If you don’t, you’ll risk moisture and dust entering your watch and potentially ruining the movement.
Above are illustrations of Rolex’s patented screw-down crown, used on their ‘Oyster’ models. On the left, the crown is fully screwed in and sealed against the case—it cannot be used to wind or adjust the watch in this position. On the right, the crown has been unscrewed and pulled out to its outermost position (illustration somewhat exaggerated), allowing the hands to be moved for time setting.
V. How to Care for Your Mechanical Watch
Caring for a mechanical wristwatch is mostly about what to avoid:
Water and Fluid Exposure
Avoid exposing your vintage watch to any form of moisture. Most vintage models were not built with the water resistance features found in modern watches. In fact, exposure to steam can be even more harmful than water. If any fluid enters the dial or mechanism, immediately pull the crown out to its furthest position, place the watch face-down in a sealed bag of rice, and seek professional service immediately. Prompt attention is critical to prevent corrosion and further damage to the movement.
Also, refrain from applying cologne or perfume to the wrist while wearing the watch. These products often contain oils and alcohols that may interact with the watch’s metal or seep inside, potentially disrupting the lubricants that keep your watch running smoothly.
Impacts and Drops
Handle your vintage watch with care to avoid dropping or striking it against hard surfaces. Originally, many of these timepieces were built to survive only modest impacts—typically a fall from no more than three feet onto a wooden surface. Now, decades later, their components are more fragile, often expensive, and sometimes difficult or impossible to replace. Even if the watch appears unharmed after a drop or knock, internal damage may have occurred. A seemingly minor jolt at just the wrong angle can cause serious mechanical issues.
Magnetism
Modern life is filled with magnetic fields and electronic devices that can interfere with your vintage mechanical watch. Unlike today’s quartz watches, older mechanical watches can be thrown off by magnetism, causing them to run fast, slow, or stop completely. When these watches were first made, everyday exposure to magnetism was minimal—perhaps limited to a television set. Today, your watch may pass near laptop batteries, phone screens, airport security scanners, or purses with magnetic closures.
To reduce the risk of magnetization, avoid placing your watch near electronic devices or magnets. If you’re going through airport security, ask to wear your watch during the body scan rather than placing it on a conveyor belt.
Magnetization is usually reversible. You can test for it by slowly moving an analog compass near the watch—if the compass needle shifts or spins, your watch may be magnetized. A demagnetizer, easily found online, can usually fix the issue. In rare cases, severe magnetism may require disassembly and treatment of individual components.
While magnetism is a common cause of watch issues, it’s just one of many potential problems. Mechanical watches are intricate but repairable, and we are here to help restore your watch to its original—or even better—functionality. Though we didn’t build these timepieces, we aim to make them perform just as well as the day they were made.
Long-Term Storage
When storing your watch for an extended period, choose a dry environment—preferably elevated, since moisture tends to settle at lower levels. If placing your watch in a safety deposit box, select one located on a higher floor if possible. Wrap the watch in paper towels and seal it in a plastic bag, adding silica gel packs to help absorb any lingering moisture.
Avoid leaving a battery inside a quartz watch during long-term storage, as it may leak and corrode the internal movement, causing significant damage.
To preserve a leather strap, store the watch in a dry place and minimize exposure to humidity or damp conditions.
VI. Servicing Your Watch
Every watch purchased from GAUTHIER Watches includes a one-year warranty. To ensure your timepiece stays in optimal condition, we highly encourage ongoing maintenance and service through us. Just like a car, a watch relies on lubricants that can degrade over time—drying out, thickening, or accumulating debris. Additionally, certain internal components experience natural wear and require periodic replacement, much like an oil filter in a vehicle. Key parts such as the mainspring and gasket rings should be replaced regularly. As a rule of thumb, mechanical manual-wind and automatic self-winding watches should be professionally serviced every 3 to 5 years.
VII. Malfunction and Troubleshooting
The most frequent reason a watch runs incorrectly is magnetism. Other common issues include insufficient winding in manual watches, inadequate wear time in automatic watches, or physical trauma such as drops or impacts.
Accuracy and Adjustment
Mechanical watches, especially vintage ones, will never match the pinpoint precision of modern quartz timepieces. Minor variations in timekeeping can occur depending on the watch’s position when it’s not being worn — for example, dial-up versus on its side.
If your mechanical watch is gaining or losing more than 30 seconds per day (the tolerance of an official chronometer), please bring it in for adjustment.
Automatic Watches and Power Reserve
Wearing your automatic watch for 8–10 hours a day with normal arm movement should provide enough energy to keep it running overnight. If the watch stops or loses time after such wear, it may indicate a problem with the power reserve. Try giving the watch 8–10 full manual winds before wearing it, especially if it hasn’t been used recently. If problems persist, have our watchmaker inspect it.
What to Do If Your Watch Stops Running
First, ensure the watch is fully wound (for manual movements). To check for magnetism, pass the watch near a compass and see if the needle reacts. If the watch stops consistently at the same time each day, it may signal internal issues. Please bring the watch in for examination as soon as possible.
Watch Running Fast
A fast-running watch is usually the result of magnetism or a dislodged hairspring caused by impact. Regardless of the exact cause, it’s important to bring the watch in promptly for evaluation.
Watch Running Slow
If your watch is losing time, magnetism is a likely cause. Another possibility is a broken balance wheel due to shock or impact. Whatever the reason, the issue should be addressed by a professional watchmaker.
Manual Watch Winds Without Stopping
A manual-wind watch should stop winding once fully wound. If it keeps turning without resistance, the mainspring is likely broken. Mainsprings are consumable components and should be replaced periodically. If this happens, bring the watch in for service.
Unable to Wind the Watch
If you can’t wind your watch or it feels strange during winding, this could be due to internal dirt, rust, dried oils, or damage from impact or moisture. In such cases, professional inspection and servicing are necessary.
Broken or Detached Watch Hands
Impacts can cause watch hands to fall off or break. This can usually be repaired quickly, and replacement hands are often available. However, if loose hands are left unchecked, they may scratch the dial. Avoid shaking the watch and bring it in immediately.
Damaged or Scratched Crystal
Most crystal cracks are caused by impact, although pressure cracks may appear shortly after installation. Cracks hidden beneath the bezel can still allow moisture inside and should be addressed right away. Light scratches on acrylic or plastic crystals can be polished out, but deep scratches or any damage on glass or sapphire crystals typically require full replacement. Natural surface aging or “crazing” is common in vintage acrylic crystals and considered part of their charm.
Quartz Watches
A quartz watch with a fresh battery should operate reliably for 1.5 to 2 years. If it’s not functioning properly, it may be due to a fault in the circuitry. In some cases, the circuits may simply need cleaning and the internal components re-lubricated. The best first step is to install a new battery and observe whether the issue recurs. If the battery dies within a month or two, this usually indicates a deeper circuit problem.
Need More Help?
If your watch is experiencing issues, don’t hesitate to contact us right away.
Final Thoughts
Mechanical vintage watches are delicate instruments, but nearly any issue can be resolved with time, effort, and the right parts. These watches are built to be worn and enjoyed. If problems arise, don’t panic — we’ve never seen a mechanical issue that couldn’t be fixed.
Spencer Gauthier, is the founder of GAUTHIER Watches and editor of GAUTHIER’S Vintage Watches & Culture Magazine.
