The season’s turned. Listicles, in droves, have been submitted and gone to press. They present the undeniably, “Top Ten Summer Watches.” It’s the bold color dial that makes them. Or a tough case. They’re dive-ready. Pool-proof. Or at least cheap enough to lose.
The definitions are numerous. Light on the wrist. Comfortable. Takes a splash or a beating without complaint. It’s bright. Maybe it’s a GMT. Or a world timer. Nice to have if you’re crossing time zones, though in this economy, you might be summering locally.
Input the above features as criteria into an AI algorithm and it’ll tell you: buy a G-SHOCK, Citizen, Seiko, or a Casio. Makes sense. They’re indestructible, waterproof. Functional. But if you’re a vintage guy, within a week your wrist will start to itch for real soul and metal.
Watches aren’t quite fashion. Not really. They’re not as seasonal. Particularly not for vintage pieces.
Vintage watches hit some of the criteria. Sure, they’re lighter. They have patina. Some have funky colors that evoke the 60’s jet set. But speaking generally, vintage timepieces are no longer fully waterproof, they’re more valuable, and they’re not meant to be so abused.
Vintage doesn’t exactly play by summer’s rules. You can’t strap on a 50-year-old timepiece in the surf and know without a doubt that you will come out smiling. Vintage divers may look sea floor-ready but will not be safe for the pool or even a bathtub without new seals or gaskets. They should always be pressure-tested if you intend to actually swim with them, but I personally wouldn’t risk it (nor does GAUTHIER Watches warrantee for it). You might be a gambling man, but I’ve personally seen one too many “Red” Submariners owned by surfers with dials destroyed by saltwater. Or movements chewed away by rust, too late to the watchmaker’s bench to be saved. Any vintage watch, even a freshly pressure-tested Rolex Oyster, is one bad acrylic-crystal-bump away from taking on water. And you may not even notice it took on water until it’s too late. The shock resistance is also generally lower. Vintage watches are not for playing volleyball. Or even to wear poolside, unless you’re solely sticking beneath the cabana with a drink in hand.
Vintage appreciators make peace with this. We wear our watches without fear, but with a healthy caution, regarding certain circumstances. No drops, no bangs, and no water. The impromptu cannonball was never cool anyway. Unless you have a romantic partner to keep an eye on your timepiece while you dip. Even better. Or just stay dry, my friends.
Instead of indestructibility, you could argue for vintage based on its summery personality. A Day-Date with a Stella dial, for example, bright as a sidewalk in Miami. Or a faded Pepsi GMT. Tropical or metallic dials that shine, linen textures, sun-drenched patina. Those watches do embody summer, in a way. But really, if we’re honest, don’t many of these pop just as well in winter? A colorful dial is a welcome cheer mid-December. Most of us know you actually can wear white after Labor Day. And a hardy, water resistant case is useful year-round, obviously.
If you’re in L.A., like we are at Gauthier Watches. The whole concept feels a little silly. What is a summer watch when it’s summer at least ten months each a year?
So we’d say the answer is no. There’s no such thing as a true “summer watch.” Particularly not in the vintage world. But there is such a thing as the right watch, for the right day, at the right time, under the right sun.
Because in the end, the traits often labeled as “summer” — legibility in sunlight, resilience, low weight, water resistance — aren’t seasonal virtues. They’re just signs of good design. A great watch disappears into your life. It doesn’t ask to be changed with the weather. You don’t swap your wedding band come June. Give love to all of your watches, all year long.
There are watches that are great for summer. But they’re probably great all year too. Your all-white G-SHOCK will probably suit the ski lift just as well as the chaise lounge by the water. The best “summer watch” isn’t built for a season. It’s built for life — messy, humid, bright, unpredictable life. That’s just a good watch.
Spencer Gauthier, is the founder of GAUTHIER Watches and editor of GAUTHIER’S Vintage Watches & Culture Magazine.
——
